Garden at Jakko-in Temple, near Ohara

Jakko-in is a sad place, for its recent history as well as the ancient one. As the story goes, when the Tiara clan were defeated in a sea battle in the year 1185, only Lady Kenrei Mon-in and her infant son (the emperor) were still alive among clan members. She threw herself and the child into the sea, but she was later pulled out and became the sole survivor. She became a nun in Kyoto, and was accepted to stay at Jakko-in where she lived her remaining 27 years in prayer. Her tomb is on the hillside behind the temple.

The more recent tragedy was the senseless destruction of the temple itself by an arsonist in 1999. The current temple is a recently finished, and well accomplished, reconstruction. There is also a nice, little museum. Reaching this peaceful and bittersweet spot requires a hike up the hill from Ohara station, but the walk is lovely.